1. After making contact with the breeder/s you intend visiting ask if they are able to send you a photo of the kitten (by email) if you are buying a kitten interstate.

2. Always ask the breeder which Cat Registering body they are registered with. (In Queensland there are four registering bodies)

3. When you arrive to view the kittens be aware of the standard of cleanliness of the litter boxes and the general health and well being of the kittens.

4. Healthy kittens will be bright eyed, coats clean and free of fleas and flea dirt, longhaired cats should not have knots in their coats and shorthaired cat’s coats should generally be lying flat except in some breeds where they have a much denser coat.  Ears should be clean and kittens should not be shaking their heads and rubbing at their ears.  Kittens should not have bloated tummies and will usually be moving about once they become accustomed to your presence.  A healthy kitten will smell as sweet as a baby.

5. The kittens should be well socialised, meaning that they should not dislike being handled by human beings as long as this is done respectfully.  Always ask the breeder if you can handle the kittens.

6. Ask to see the mother (queen) of the kittens as well as the father (sire).  Sometimes it is not possible to see the sire as the queen may have been sent to a stud owned by another breeder.

7. Ask lots of questions –

• What date were they born?
• How old are they now?
• At what age do they go to their new homes?
• When do they have their first vaccination?
• Depending on their age – what are they eating now – and what diet will they be on when they are ready to go to their new home?
• Does the breeder provide a Diet and Care Sheet for the care of the kitten?  This sheet should give details as to what and when to feed your kitten such information as brands of tinned food, raw meats, brands of dry food (pellets) being fed, litter trays, brand of litter, type of grooming tools, when to worm your kitten etc.
• The breeder should also provide you with detailed information on the grooming of your kittens coat (especially if it is a semi-longhaired or longhaired kitten).  Information should include types of combs, brushes, shampoos and conditioners etc.
• What brand and type of litter are/will they be using, assuming they will be litter box trained?
• Will the kitten have a 2nd vaccination before being collected?
• Will the kitten be desexed prior to being collected?
• Will the kitten be micro-chipped prior to being collected?
• Will the stitches be removed if it is a female?
• Do we need to leave a deposit?
  

8. If you are required to leave a deposit (which is quite understandable) usually a minimum of 20-25% then request a fully detailed receipt with the following information –

• Total amount payable for the kitten
• Deposit amount
• Balance on pick up.
• Full name of the sire and the queen (parents of the kitten)
• Details as to breed, colour, and sex of kitten
• Details of any vaccinations, micro-chipping, desexing or other inclusions and the date the kitten can be picked up.
• If you are buying a kitten as a family pet you will no doubt be paying a smaller price for it than you would if you were buying a ‘breeding’ cat.   Make sure this is clear on the receipt as well.

9. Ask if you get a copy of the pedigree of the kitten when you collect it to take it home together with the vaccination certificates (you should make sure you have the vaccination certificate).  Breeders are quite within their rights not to transfer the registration and pedigree of a kitten into the buyers name until the kitten has been desexed, if this has been agreed to during your discussions and if the kitten has been bought as  ‘pet only’, this does not apply if the kitten is desexed prior to collection.   If the kitten is bought as a pet then you may be required to produce a copy of the Veterinary certificate of ‘Sterilization’ before the ‘papers’ are transferred into your name.

10. Breeders who register with us are required under our Code of Ethics to have all kittens vet checked prior to going to their new homes.

11. Once you have paid a deposit ask the breeder if you can have your copy of the diet and care sheet so that you are well prepared with the supplies you need when you take your new family member home.

• Keep any correspondence you have with the breeder so that you know exactly what has transpired if there should be any dispute between you and the breeder.
• Remember if you have agreed to collect the kitten on a certain day it is your responsibility to be in touch with the breeder to confirm or change the arrangements to a convenient time to collect the kitten.  If you do not make contact with the breeder then the breeder would reserve the right to re-sell the kitten after the collection date once they have tried to contact you on a number of occasions.  

Then should you have any unanswered questions or anything you are unsure of please feel free to ring myself Barbara LaRocca President 07 5527 8188 or Mobile 0411 427 106 or any other member of our Executive.

QFA Inc also have available a DVD professionally produced by the Animal Welfare League of Qld giving sensible sound advice on what to do when you take your new kitten home.  These are available through our Registrar, Ph 3814 1166 10am – 4 pm Mon – Fri.  or Email: qfeline@powerup.com.au for $6 including postage.

Index of QFA Inc Code of Ethics

Responsible Cat Ownership

Help save our wildlife, our environment and our cats.

Ways to become a responsible cat owner.

Benefits of owning a cat.

Animals should be:

• Healthy
• Of good temperament
• Of lines free from any know genetic fault
• Not displaying any generally accepted genetic fault

• Entire female cats must not roam free unless under supervision.
• Calling females must be confined.
• Entire male cats must never roam free.
• Must be groomed regularly and handled daily.
• Must be given facilities for climbing and scratching.
• Be given a balanced and varied diet.
• Be housed in hygenic conditions.
• Be provided with hygenic toilet facilities which are kept clean and disinfected regularly.
• Food and water bowls to be changed at least once a day.
• Receive prompt veterinary attention if and when required.
• Be vaccinated in accordance with current veterinary advice.
• Be treated on a regular basis for internal and external parasites, in accordance with current veterinary advice on various parasitic cycle controls.
• Crossbreeding is not permitted unless the breeder has an experimental license, or where it is generally accepted otherwise, e.g. British Shorthair X Scottish Fold.

• Cats should be fed a varied diet except on veterinary advice.
• Raw meat (no preservatives).
• Kidney, heart, raw liver – NOT MORE THAN ONCE WEEKLY.
• Cooked and boned fish, chicken, rabbit.
• Tinned food.
• Cheese, cottage cheese, egg yolk.
• Dried food.
• FRESH WATER MUST ALWAYS BE AVAILABLE.
• ADULT CATS SHOULD BE OFFERED FOOD TWICE A DAY.

• Queens shall not be overbred, Maximum of two (2) litters per every 12 months is recommended.
• All breeders are to familiarise themselves with the kittening process prior to breeding a Litter.
• Increase food amounts to the queen as pregnancy progresses and/or as the queen requires.
• Ensure an adequate calcium supply during pregancy and lactation.
• Provide a clean, adequately sized box and bedding at least one (1) week prior to expected kittening.
• Assist the kittening process where necessary.
• Queens must not be left more than two (2) hours in unproductive labour before seeking veterinary advice.
• Once all kittens are born, replace bedding and/or box, and change bedding at least every two (2) days.
• Queen and kittens to be kept in a draught free, but well-ventilated area.
• Check the queen daily for undue bleeding and signs of mastitis.
• Check kittens daily for weight gain.
• Seek veterinary advice on sickly or deformed kittens.
• Eyes should be checked daily in small kittens and if eye infections occur, veterinary treatment should be sought.

 6. KITTEN CARE & WEANING 

• Kittens shall not be taken away from their mother until such time as they are fully weaned.
• Between 4 and 6 weeks, kittens may be introduced to suitable foods, e.g.

Cereal
Baby food (chicken, fish, beef broth)
Specially prepared, commercial kitten food.


• WATER MUST ALWAYS BE AVAILABLE.
  
• Between 6 and 12 weeks, kittens may be introduced to:-

Finely chopped or minced meat, chicken, rabbit
Grated cheese, cottage cheese, egg yolk.
Tinned food.


• WATER MUST ALWAYS BE AVAILABLE.
  
• Provide litter trays suitable for kittens (shallow) as soon as kittens are mobile.
• Kittens should be fed a minimum of three (3) times daily until 3-4 months of age, when they may be fed twice daily.
• Kittens quarters shall be safe, to avoid injury from falling.
• Kittens shall be vaccinated in accordance with the current veterinary advice.
• Kittens must be treated on a regular basis for internal and external parasites, in accordance with current veterinary advice on various parasitic cycle controls.

 7. SALE OF KITTENS 

• It is a QFA requirement that all kittens must have undergone a full veterinary examination prior to sale.     A vaccination and/or desexing/microchipping certificate will suffice as proof of a veterinary examination.     If self vaccination is undertaken, a health certificate by a qualified veterinary surgeon must be provided.
• No kitten may be sold under the age of eight (8) weeks of age and preferably not until 10-12 Weeks.
• Kittens under 12 weeks cannot be fully vaccinated, and it is the breeder's responsibility to ensure that the new owners are provided with current vaccination records and fully informed of the requirements.
• Kittens shall be healthy, fully weaned and litter tray trained.
• No kitten with an infectious disease shall be sold or placed.
• Breeder shall provide purchasers with diet, grooming and care information. Pedigree may be supplied but in case of PET ONLY, same may be with-held until proof of desexing is supplied to the breeder's satisfaction.
• It is not recommended that kittens be sold to commercial cat wholesalers, or retail pet dealers and may NOT be given as a prize or donation for a contest of any kind, or be advertised as a giveaway.
• A breeder shall not misrepresent the characteristics of the breed, nor falsely advertise or mislead any person regarding the pedigree or performance of any kitten on the show bench or as a pet.
• Kittens sold as breeding stock shall be sold ONLY TO REGISTERED BREEDERS.
• Pet kittens shall be desexed at five (5) months of age. It should be the breeders responsibility to ensure that the purchaser is made aware of any current law in this regard.
• Breeders shall keep records of names and addresses of all purchasers.

 8. STUD QUARTERS AND CARE 

• Quarters must be as roomy as possible with the minimum size being 2100mm x 1950mm with an area set aside within the enclosure for the introduction of visiting queens.
• Quarters shall be kept clean in order to keep the odour to a minimum
• Climbing and scratching facilities must be provided, plus a high shelf for the stud to retreat to after mating.
• Studs require plenty of companionship both human and feline. On a daily basis, some time should be spent grooming and handling the stud. A feline companion such as a desexed cat may be beneficial.
• Each stud must have individual quarters.
• Current vaccination certificate must be sighted before accepting a visiting queen.
• Visiting queens should be examined for cleanliness and state of health prior to introducing to stud.
• Matings shall only be accepted for cats owned by registered breeders.
• Queens should be permitted to remain with the stud for a reasonable time after mating, and not be removed from the stud quarters before a minimum of three (3) matings have been witnessed.

 9. DISPOSAL OF BREEDING STOCK 

• It is the breeder's responsibility to desex all stock no longer required or unsuitable for Breeding.
Desexed former breeding stock may be found homes. Creating overcrowding within the cattery should be avoided.
• No breeding cat shall be excessively passed around, be leased loaned or sold ENTIRE more than three (3) times during its life, before being desexed.
• It is the owner's responsibility to ascertain the acceptability of the new owner's (lessee's borrower's, buyer's) premises and standard of care before the cat is re-located.
• NO PERSON MAY ADVERTISE A CATTERY SELL-OUT.

 10. BREEDERS' REGISTRATION 

All breeders must be registered annually with an approved governing cat control body.

No person may knowingly intermate two breed groups without having applied to a recognised governing body and having been granted an experimental licence to do so. There are some exception, such as Manx x British shorthair. (Refer QFA Inc Rules & Regulations)

In Australia in recent years, concern has been raised about the impact of cats, both domestic and feral, on native fauna populations. It has long been known that cats and dogs that are allowed to roam free place greater risk on the environment. Concerns about the role of domestic cats in particular, has led many groups, more recently local government authorities, to consider cat management options.

There are approximately *3,8 million dogs and *2.9 million cats in Australia , so it is not hard to imagine the damage that these animals could do to the environment if controls are not introduced and properly regulated.

With the focus on our depleting natural resources and native fauna populations, it is easy to see why environmentalists and the like, target the cat as a cause of some of the problem.

Basically, cats are nocturnal creatures - they are quite content to sleep away the day, but come nightfall, our friendly family feline transforms itself into a hunter

Regardless of the fact that they may have already been fed, this does not curb the natural instinct to play the age old game of cat and mouse. It is not necessarily that the cat wants to kill and eat its prey but just the thrill of the chase is enough.

Cats often will prefer to just play with whatever it is that they are stalking, whether it be a garden lizard, a moth or a small bird. Mostly the animal in question will usually die of fright more than injuries inflicted by its feline playmate. it is not uncommon to see a cat with a dead insect or small mammal actually throw it into the air or bat it with their paw to continue the game long after the creature has died. When the cat realises that its playmate is no longer going to play, they walk away to find something else to do - rather than actually eat it as is the common theory. So although our lovable family cat may not want to harm or kill our native wildlife, often this is sadly the case.

The time of day when a cat will do the most damage Is actually at night! The old practice of putting the cat out at night is no longer the responsible or even the acceptable thing to do !

The extent to which cats are reported to catch prey is considerably lower for those cats which are securely contained within the home at night than for those able to go outside at will or those who are put outside against their will!

Only 40% of domestic cats in Australia are contained at night* That's a large volume of cats running around every night - imagine the damage that these felines could do to the environment, our fauna and themselves.

We urge all animal lovers and most especially cat lovers and owners to set a good example and keep your animals contained at night.

We need to become responsible pet owners - a successful pet meets the owner's needs and expectations and integrates into the family AND much more importantly the environment as well.

• Desex your pet at an early age so that the natural instinct to wander does not overcome it and it will be content to stay within the confines of your yard and home.
• A desexed cat will not go looking for a fight, it will not yowl at night, it will not spray and cause unpleasantness and sleepless nights for your family or your neighbours either.
  
• Feed your cat after you have brought it inside for the night - it may wander once it has a full belly cats are naturally drawn to the night and its secrets.
  
• Keep your cat securely confined to home at night so that it cannot wander and get into fights with other cats, get runover, or more importantly hunt.
  
• If you cannot keep your cat inside your home then place the cat in the laundry or garage and always provide a litter tray, clean water, food and some bedding so the cat is comfortable for the evening.

BENEFITS OF OWNING A CAT

Research in Australia supports the idea that the companionship of a pet is good for a person's health - the data is convincing. In fact, Pet Owners:

• Visit their GP less often than non-pet owners and use less medication
• Have, on average, lower cholesterol and blood pressure levels
• Recover quicker from surgery and illness
• Deal better with stressful situations
• Are less likely to feel lonely
• Have social support and comfort, and have higher self-esteem,

Responsible cat ownership modified with permission from the Gold Coast Cat Club a member of QFA Inc

* Statistics - Australian Companion Animal Council